The Salvador Dali Museum

From Ceret, drive east to RN-9 or the Autoroute turning south to Spain. Cross the border and carry on south for a further 15 minutes or so to Figueres. We came here to see the Dali Museum and were not disappointed. It is pointless giving directions - you cannot miss the crazy building if you drive towards the town centre. Park legally and be prepared to walk back to the museum.

Whatever you think of Salvador Dali or his work, the museum is a must. It may do no more than confirm the prejudices you already have - good or bad! If you have no opinion, still go, but prepare yourself for an extraordinary experience. (There's a reasonable multi-storey car park right next door.)

The Sardanya

Also in Figueres was our first exposure to the Sardanya, a sedate Catalan dance to the haunting music played, usually, by a woodwind ensemble with a lead OBOE! Thought to have been introduced to the area by the ancient Greeks, long before the Romans came, the steps of the dance are fiendishly intricate. Don't be persuaded to try it.

The Sardanya is performed in public squares and open spaces in southern France (including Ceret which has an annual Sardane festival every July) and northern Spain, particularly in holidays and festivals and appears to be a peaceful but defiant expression of Catalan culture, independence and solidarity. It has a curiously hypnotic quality. Many people try to follow the step from outside the circles, and are welcome to do so, but it is more difficult to replicate than it appears!